Shizuoka's food cultureKnow

Did you know that a food ingredient that is said to be the "original form of bonito flakes" still remains in Japan today?

It's called "Shiokatsuo" (Sea Bonito Flakes). It's Japan's oldest preserved food, made by salting whole bonito and drying them in the cold winter wind. It was once made in fishing villages all over the country, but today it is only produced in the Tago district of Nishiizu Town, Shizuoka Prefecture. Why has it remained only in this area? What kind of handiwork is involved in making it? To find the answer, we visited Kanesa Katsuobushi Shoten, a long-established store in Tago.

The Tako area of ​​Nishiizu Town in Shizuoka Prefecture is a fishing town that has long prospered through bonito fishing and the bonito flakes processing industry. The honkarebushi produced in this area is called "Takobushi" and is sometimes counted as one of the three major bonito flakes in Japan.

The process of making salted bonito begins when the air starts to dry.11It's early May. Kanesa's style is to complete all processes by hand, without relying on machines. The process begins with cutting the bonito. The bonito used is plump, plump, and extremely fresh, carefully selected by Mr. Serizawa. The craftsman makes deep cuts in the belly to ensure that the salt penetrates deep inside.

Time passed, and once40The katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) business, which had been lined with shops, has now become a mere3Only the eaves remain. One of them, Meiji15Founded in 1997, Kanesa Katsuobushi Shoten is the only long-established store in Japan that handles everything from the production of dried bonito to the decoration of rice straw.5The next generation owner, Yasuhisa Serizawa, has inherited the tradition and continues to preserve it with his skilled techniques.

The bloody parts, which are easily damaged, are carefully removed. The skilled techniques of the artisans shine through in their unwavering hands.

The next step is salting. A bamboo spatula is used to pack a generous amount of salt into the cuts. The salt is pressed into the bonito, not only on its surface, but also inside its belly and deep inside its gills, ensuring that no gaps are left uncovered. The amount of salting determines how long the bonito will last. This is a world where the experience and intuition of the craftsman come into play.

 So it took a few hours, about300The bonito is salted without stopping, without taking your eyes off it. The making of salted bonito is truly the culmination of handiwork.

Each salted bonito is very heavy, making it a difficult task for one person to handle.2The salting process is carried out in perfect harmony with the people involved.

One by one, Mr. Serizawa lifts the bonito up to chest height and lovingly arranges them in the stone tank. His hands are filled with gratitude for life and prayers to God. This reminds us that making salted bonito is a noble endeavor that goes beyond just preserving food.

Once you have finished arranging all the bonito,10Let it sit for about a day to create the base of the salted bonito.

After that, they are dried. The salt on the bonito is carefully washed with fresh water, and after shaping, they are hung outside. The drying area is set up in a place where the wind from the sea can easily pass through, and it takes about3It is exposed to the cold wind for a week. No dryers or additives are used, and it is finished using only the natural climate. This is the greatest feature of making salted bonito.

The dried bonito is wrapped in straw with rice ears attached and decorated. The finished product is shipped as "Shogatsuyo," a lucky New Year's fish.

Only those who make a reservation in advance can get this New Year's fish.50The fish is prepared as New Year's fish, and the rest is sold as processed products.

"The history of Shio-katsuo is1500"It's been around for over 100 years. It's older than bonito flakes, and was once presented as an offering from Tago to the capital of Nara. In fact, bonito products are still used in religious ceremonies at Ise Grand Shrine today. As a fish offered to the gods, bonito has always held a special place in its heart," says Serizawa.

"Blue fish like bonito spoil easily, and in the Edo period they were sometimes called 'poisonous fish.' The development of salting techniques to prevent spoilage made it possible to preserve them for long periods of time.

There is also a theory that samurai ate bonito before heading off to battle, and the kanji character for "victory man" was given to the fish, making it a popular lucky charm. Bonito is truly a blessed fish."

Homemade "Thank you"TYasuku, wearing a shirt, says this and laughs.

So why is salted bonito the only place that remains?

"In Tago, salted bonito is linked to the belief in the New Year's deity, and is offered to the household altar along with rice straw decorations during the New Year. It is precisely because these religious ceremonies are deeply rooted in daily life that the method of making salted bonito has been passed down.

On the other hand, in other regions, the custom itself has died out because it was not connected to religious ceremonies. In other words, salted bonito is not just dried fish, but a memory of the region itself," says Serizawa.

There is also a small sales area next to the processing plant of "Kanesa Katsuobushi Shoten." Inside, you will find a wide selection of katsuobushi and processed bonito products. They also have a wide selection of salted bonito products. In addition to vacuum-packed halves and fillets,Hand volcanic roasting(Tebiyamashikibaikan)The selection is greater than you'd expect, with varieties that are made using a special method and even types that can be sprinkled on dishes.

The hand-roasted volcano method is a traditional method in which a craftsman applies heat evenly while manually controlling the heat level to smoke and dry the bonito, concentrating its flavor without letting it escape.

With the desire to "let young people know about the appeal of salted bonito," in recent years it has been increasingly utilized as a local resource. Tago is also the place where you can eat unique products made with salted bonito, such as gelato and candy.

Serizawa told us how to eat salted bonito.

"Shio-bonito1Slice and rice1Just add water and cook to create a delicious rice dish.

Add ingredients to your liking, or garnish with chopped green onions. Depending on how you arrange it, you can enjoy this dish with many more ways than one. When you try it, you'll be surprised at how simple yet surprisingly flavorful it is. It's so delicious that it makes you want to eat more rice.

In restaurants in Nishiizu Town, "Shio Katsu Odon," a dish made with salted bonito, is a popular local delicacy. With just the right amount of saltiness and a variety of textures, it's the perfect lunch. We recommend stopping by and trying it out during your trip.